Cuentos: Galapagos

Five hundred miles of the Ecuadorian coast lies an archipelago of volcanic islands, some ancient, some relatively new, that are home to some of the most unique animal species on Earth. The Galapagos Islands are named after the giant tortoises that made the place famous to the "outside" world. Galapago, in Spanish, means tortoise.

With grants from the Spanish and German governments, Ecuador has established a strong infrastructure for tourism, sustainability, and preservation within Galapagos National Park. The beauty of the islands is overwhelming, and the prehistoric nature of the creatures that live there is baffling and enchanting. The animals are so trusting, so tame, so approachable that I often felt as though I were strolling through some sort of weird petting zoo. One can only imagine the problems this lack of suspicion on the part of the animals has presented since the islands' "discovery" in the 16th century. Today, after battling the introduction of invasive plant and animal species, excessive hunting, and habitat loss, the creatures of the Galapagos are protected by law and strong efforts are made to revive endangered species.

Tom Murphy and I visited three of the fourteen islands: San Cristobal, Isabela, and Santa Cruz. Independent travel in the Galapagos is tricky for first-timers, but the people who live there are warm-hearted and kind; we were never without words of advice or helpful direction. Nine days was not nearly enough time to explore even a fraction of the strange and beautiful corners of the islands. We left with only a taste of what exists there and are already looking forward to the next time. That said, we feel profoundly fortunate to have had the opportunity to visit even once.

It should be noted that all of these photos were taken with Tom Murphy's camera(s). My beloved little waterproof number was lost on Day 8.

Baby sea lion resting on cool concrete in the capital of Galapagos, Puerto Baquerizo Moreno (Isla San Cristobal).

Juvenile sea lion on San Cristobal.

Nighttime gathering of sea lions beneath street lights, San Cristobal.

GBH (Great Blue Heron), San Cristobal.

In the highlands, San Cristobal. These three wind turbines generate 50% of San Cristobal's energy.

Laguna El Junco, San Cristobal. This fresh-water lake fills the crater at the top of a volcano. The birds circling above are Frigate Birds. They come here to wash the salt water from their wings. This is one of two supplies of fresh water in the archipelago. The demand for fresh water in Galapagos presents a difficult challenge to residents, tourists, and developers.

From up high (El Junco) on San Cristobal.

Giant tortoise, La Galapaguera de Cerro Colorado, San Cristobal.
This is a semi-natural breeding center for the San Cristobal tortoise. Incubators and a controlled environment help scientists in their effort to revive the dwindling population.