In closing

I'm home now.  In the United States, with Arlo (my handsome canine friend), on San Juan Island, with a head full of questions and ideas and recently formed memories.  

The hardest goodbyes were exchanged with Marcia (the amazing woman who lived upstairs and shared her life and stories and food with me - much like a mother would with her own daughter), Nina (the skittish little dog who lived in my apartment), Cotopaxi (the volcano that looms over Latacunga as both folkloric guardian and impatient enemy), and the lady with the gold tooth who sells 25 cent avocados at the open-air market.  As much as I miss them already, saying goodbye to my Fulbright girls and to the amazing human rights lawyers I've been lucky to know was easier - I'll see them all in the months or years to come.  The goodbyes I shared with my students and colleagues at the Universidad Tecnica de Cotopaxi were trickier - unless I return to Ecuador, it's likely I won't ever see them again.  (That reality is not pleasant.)  Goodbye to the lack of rules and regulations.  Goodbye to the incessant drone of useless car alarms.  Goodbye to the wild alpacas and llamas and the cows that are herded through Latacunga's city streets.  Goodbye to my kids at the rose plantation and good luck to them in all they pursue in the years to come.  Goodbye to Pilsener and Club and their not-as-popular cousin with identical flavor, Brahma.  Goodbye to my 50-lb. bicycle and the dogs who chased me all the months I rode it.  Goodbye to 50 cent pineapples and giant green mandarin oranges and perfect tomatoes.  Goodbye to almuerzos and canelazo and chivas.  Goodbye to bus rides that make my palms sweat and my eyes swell with tears.  Goodbye to warm jungle rivers and the monkeys who provide the soundtrack to kayaking adventures.  Goodbye to kisses on the cheek at every meeting.  Goodbye to weekend hikes to 15,000'.  Goodbye to wretched infamy and hello to precious, elusive anonymity.  Goodbye to strangely fabulous dance parties with endless salsa, bachata, and serious faces.  Goodbye (for now) to the people and places that taught me so very much and presented to me brilliant ideas and weird beauty that I won't soon forget. 

Brown alpaca at Papallacta

White alpaca at Papallacta

Antisana volcano glowing on a perfectly clear final day in Ecuador, as seen from Papallacta hot springs

Shannon helped me pack my apartment on my last day in Latacunga.  Just as a friend I've known my whole life would do, she provided her patience and company as I flailed through the packing process, drinking wine and giggling and recounting reasons why we'll miss Ecuador once we're far away.  I went with her to Quito and over the remaining few days I climbed Ruminhaui (an extinct neighbor volcano of Cotopaxi), wrapped up business in Quito and at the Fulbright office, ate delicious food with Matt Terry and discussed the future of the Ecuadorian Rivers Institute, soaked in the pools at Papallacta, and enjoyed one more exquisite evening with the lawyer girls I've come to love over the last few months.  Then I got on a plane and flew to Seattle.  

Rumnihaui behind the clouds.

New friends from the Embassy on the final scramble to the top of Ruminhaui.

One of the summits of Rumminhaui (15,400')

I was welcomed home with hugs and kisses, several consecutive Panic shows, a trip to the Rockies, a long-overdue reunion with my beloved Arlo, delectable snacks and IPA and Kentucky bourbon, and mosquito bites.

I missed my home (my country) and the people who live here.

I am grateful in so many ways for the opportunity I was given.  Some day soon I hope to head south again and visit Ecuador with new intentions.  But for now, I'll stay right where I am, happy as a clam and in the company of the things and people and dogs that I love.

Thanks to all who supported me in this effort.

Love.

C. Brown

The Tetons as seen from Grand Targhee on July 3rd.

My roommates.  Two nights ago.  San Juan Island.