Cuentos: Mama Negra

"Mama Negra" 2010: Dr. Roberto Sandoval

Black face and sugarcane alcohol

Yesterday, Saturday, we indulged in what is perhaps Latacunga's most famous and exciting event: the Mama Negra (Black Mother) festival. At 7:30 am, Amanda (visiting from Riobamba) and I made our way to the opening ceremonies. Two hours of poetry, prayer, and introductions/recognition of prominent members of Latacungan society welcomed in the crowds. Slowly, as the fireworks roused the town and summoned its citizens to the southern part of the city, people filled the streets. Kim, Lindsay, Julia, and our new friend Ivan arrived from Quito just in time for mimosas (my own North American contribution to the morning) and a.m. Pilseners. The parade began with tremendous spirit and finished, many hours later, with the same vigor and animation.

Huacos, or witches, with their instruments of "cleansing"

Bands and groups of dancers from the region's universities, schools, and institutions followed one another through the streets of Latacunga. From our fortunate viewpoint near the ceremonial grandstand, we were able to see the whole parade in all its strange glory. Every once in a while, men dressed as huacos (witches) would pull someone from the crowd into the street for "cleansing." This ritual involved dancing around the chosen spectator with painted sticks, chanting the names of the major Ecuadorian volcanoes, and finalizing the deal by dousing him/her with sugarcane alcohol sprayed from their mouths. We were all lucky enough to experience this at least two times each.

Kim receives her cleansing.

This kind gentleman finishes the cleansing by spitting alcohol all over Kim's back.

These men, called ashangueros, carried entire roast pigs on their backs. In addition to the pig carcass, these impressive athletes danced their way through the streets with roast cuy (guinea pigs), full bottles of booze, boxes of ciggies, and other party favors affixed to their bodies.

The Mama Negra's roots are varied and at times seemingly unrelated. Traditionally, the celebration is something of an offering to the Virgen de la Mercedes (Virgin of Mercy) so that she might continue to protect the townspeople from another violent and doubtlessly catastrophic eruption of Volcan Cotopaxi. The festival also incorporates elements related to the expulsion of the Moors from Spain, indigenous Andean culture, and the African presence in South America. Important men from the community are chosen to play the prestigious roles of the main characters of the event: El Angel de la Estrella, El Rey Moro, and of course La Mama Negra. Other notable characters: (many) men dressed as women, two moss-covered creatures in full face paint, and gorillas on leashes.

El Angel de la Estrella (Angel of the Star)

El Rey Moro (The Moorish King)

Below are some photos of me and the members of Team Fulbright who were able to attend the festivities. It should be noted that the Latacungan population can win any party. The volume of liquor consumed yesterday and the enthusiasm with which it was passed from person to person, the hours spent schwilling in the oppressive highland sun, and the speed with which the municipality cleaned up the mess was truly impressive. Bravo, team. And viva Latacunga. Viva la Mama Negra.